New Shop Addition - Angel Wings Soap

After curing for several months to ensure a good, hard bar, my Angel Wings Soap is finally available from Rebecca's Soap Delicatessen!

My handmade Angel Wings Soap is the perfect soap for dry or troubled skin. Great as a facial bar or all over, this bar contains both shea and cocoa butters as well as an abundance of skin loving oils such as Olive and Rice Bran, both known for their moisturizing properties. In addition I've also added goat and cow's milk to this bar. This handcrafted soap leaves behind a bit of your body's own natural oils to help smooth and rehydrate your skin. This soap leaves many users feeling moisturized, not oily or greasy. Also makes a great shampoo bar or even a shaving soap. You'll really enjoy the rich, lotion like lather it produces.

Made using the cold process soapmaking method, my Angel Wings Soap is an enticing romantic blend of juicy machitosh apples enhanced and sweetened by rich French jasmine, cyclamen, and fresh rose petals. It is made from all natural ingredients except for the fragrance. Bar weighs 4oz. - 4.5oz.

You can buy this soap now online at my Etsy shop.

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How to Make Herbal Tea

Here's a great video tutorial from Mountain Rose Herbs on making your own herbal teas using loose herbs.

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Sugar Scrub Recipe

This tutorial was written by and is reprinted with permission from Nicki Leigh Bath & Body.

Some of you may know that I have been working on a sugar scrub recipe for my business. While I have not set on a particular one as of yet, here is one that you can do with items you may have in your kitchen.

You will need a seal tight container such as a jar or even an old shampoo bottle. Make sure the container is washed out and dry before you use it. Now, you can use 2 different types of sugar. Also, the amount of sugar you use will determine how exfoliating the scrub becomes.

So here we go.

You will need:

1 Jar or plastic bottle
3-4 tablespoons of a light vegetable oil such as olive oil
1 cup of brown or white cane sugar

Again, be sure the container you use is cleaned out and dry before using it. Now that you have the jar or bottle ready, the first thing you need to do is to add the sugar. A jar really is best for this, but if you cannot get a hold of one, an old shampoo bottle will do.

Add in your sugar and then add the light oil. Mix it as well as you can.

Test it out in the sink. If you used more sugar than you'd like, continue to add small amounts of vegetable oil until it reaches the consistency you prefer. If it is too thin, you can add more sugar.

Another fun thing to try is to grab your favorite shampoo and use it in place of the vegetable oils. Just do not use the scrub in your hair. I tried it and while it felt nice at first, it gets oily very fast.


Just be careful in the tub or shower. Use the sugar scrub first, then rinse and use a body wash if needed. If you did a mix of shampoo with soap, this step is not necessary. Be sure to clean the tub or shower out after you are done! The oils can make it very slippery and we would not want anyone to slip and fall in the shower.

NOTE: Keep the scrub refrigerated and discard it after 1 month if you do not have a preservative in the house.

There you go! Go ahead, pamper yourself! I promise not to tell anyone.

You can shop Nicki Leigh Bath & Body online at Etsy and Artfire. She currently sells lip balms, soaps, body balms, roll on perfumes, and salves.

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How To Create A Reversible Headband

This tutorial was created and is reprinted with permission by Zemphira Creations.

You Will Need:

2 pieces of fabric that measure 19 inches by 3 inches
5 inches of elastic
template and tracing utensil, safety pin
iron, sewing machine, thread, scissors, & and chopstick

Step 1- Choose your fabric. I tend to use two fabrics that somewhat coordinate. Cut a 19x 3 inch rectangle from each fabric.

Step 2 - Put the two fabrics right sides together, and then fold them in half. Place the end of the template on the fold and then trace. Cut out the pieces on the line.

Step 3- Sew the two pieces of fabric together leaving the ENDS open as well as a 2 inch hole along one side. (sew 1/4 inch away from the edge)

Step 4 - Attach a safety pin to one end of the elastic and thread it through one end of the headband. Do not pull it all the way through, stop with a little bit of elastic hanging out of the end. Then sew down that end of the elastic - I backstitch over the elastic a few times. Then pull the elastic out the other end and sew it down. (right now the headband will be scrunched up and inside out)

Step 5- Turn the headband right-side out through the 2-inch hold you left on one of the long sides. Use a chopstick to push out the corners and along the seams. Iron the headband flat.

Step 6- Top-stitch a little less than a 1/4 inch all the way around the headband - make sure you pay extra attention when you are sewing the hole to be sure you close it up.

Step 7 - Wear your headband, give your headband away, and then create another!

To see more great things created by Zemphira, please visit her shop online at http://zemphira.etsy.com.

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How To: Felted Soap

Tutorial reprinted courtesy of Becky Rose Designs Blog.



Felted soaps have been one of my best selling items, probably due to a combination of several facts- they're fun, extremely functional, make great gift, unusual, and less expensive than anything else in my store.

For a while I've been planning on putting together a tutorial on how to make them so that you can all give it a try! I will try to explain everything in a way that someone who has never felted before can understand. Also, if there is anything you don't understand please ask me questions and I would be happy to add that information in.

First off for those of you who are thinking "ok, that's nice, but what on earth is felted soap??" here's the basic description that I include in my etsy listings-
"Felted soap functions as a built in washcloth and gently exfoliates while creating a lovley lather. Just wet, rub a little to get sudzy and use! As the soap is used up the felt casing will shrink with it until it gets very small allowing you to use every last bit as well extending the life of your soap. Once the soap is gone you will be left with a small, great smelling, felt pouch that can be cut open and used to put something special in, or kept as a shower scrubby to use with the other fabulous handmade soaps from etsy."

The basic idea behind wet felting is that agitation, hot water, and soap cause the wool fibers to tangle more and more tightly together and eventually become a solid piece of felt. Felted soap is a great introduction to wet felting because the soap is already part of it, and it is a small project so it goes relatively quickly and you can get the feel for felting before going on to bigger projects.

I would recommend starting out making only one at a time, until you get the hang of it. I usually do 3 or 4 in a sitting but then my hands get so soaplogged (you know how your fingers get all shriveled up and waterlogged when you've been swimming for too long? it's like that but you have soap in your fingers) that I can't stand it any more and need to take a break. The funny part about that is the next time you go to wash your hands they're already soapy.

Let's Get Started!

You will need:

-a towel
-wool (I use merino because it is the softest and also wet felts more quickly than other types)
-a bar of soap
-hot water (in a bowl, or a squirt bottle)
-(optional) a piece of rubber or plastic mat

Lay the plastic mat on top of the towel (if you don't have a rubber mat I would recommend doing this on a plastic table top or some other surface that won't be damaged by water.

Step 1:

(skip if you only have one color of wool)

Lay out little wispy bits of wool in the pattern and color that you want, if you would like a really specific design lightly needle felt it together first but only enough that it stays put. I like to play with color in more abstract designs and see what happens.

To read the rest of this tutorial, visit Becky Rose Designs Blog.

Also, be sure to visit Becky's shop at http://beckyrose.etsy.com for handwoven scarves and earrings, beaded jewelry, felted soap, and more.

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How To Sew A Groovy Fish Soft Toy

Tutorial written by Denise Ferragamo of Ferragamo Studio Blog. Reprinted with permission.

This cute fish is easy to sew and can be made in an hour or two. I don't have a pattern, but these shapes are easy to cut on your own. I've taken photos against a cutting mat, so you can gauge the size against the 1 x 1 grid. This tutorial assumes you have basic sewing skills. If you need help with stitches like the blanket stitch, consult google for quick information.

Materials: 1/4 yd. or less of cotton fabric
1-18 x 18 sheet of turquoise wool blend felt
1- 6 x 8 piece of batting
scraps of colored felt
embroidery floss
polyfil for filling
thread - a color coordinated to fabric and felt

With fabric doubled, fold over and cut a half oval shape (see photo). I made my shape 12 inches long and 4 inches wide. You should end up with 2 football shaped pieces of fabric.

Cut a piece of batting in the shape of a fish tail. The easiest way to do this is to cut a heart shape and then cut off the pointy end. Then cut two pieces of turquoise felt about 1/8 inch larger than the batting heart. Sandwich the batting heart between the felt and top stitch "fin" lines and finish the edge with a blanket stitch in embroidery floss.

This is what you should end up with.



Follow the same process for the dorsal fin. This is what it should look like.

Cut 2 felt circles about 2 inches in diameter, 2 smaller circles and 2 triangles. Use contrasting colors. Now you will sew the eyes onto your fish.

Place the 2 layered circles at one end of the football shape. Top stitch as shown. After stitching the circles, overlay the triangles and top stitch 1/8 from edge. After machine stitching, hand embroider a blanket stitch around the larger circle with contrasting color embroidery floss.

Next, cut 2 matching fin shapes from felt and place below eye. Zigzag all around and top stitch fin lines. Make sure you create a right and left side of fish. It's easy to get confused and make 2 sides that look the same.

Now lay the fish tail on one piece of the fish body as shown. Stitch 1/8 inch from edge. Make sure to have tail no closer than 1/4" from edge of body. You'll need this extra space for the seam allowance when you stitch the body sides together. Cut off the extra pointy bit of fabric near the tail. Make sure to leave about 1/4 inch when you do this.

When you fold back the tail, this is what it should look like. Notice the extra space on either side of the tail.

Here you can see the trimmed tail area.
To put the final pieces together, fold the tail back over, and lay the dorsal fin towards the center. If it looks upside down, you did it right. Some of the dorsal fin can fall off the edge of the body, that is fine. Make sure the center of the dorsal fin lies at the edge of the body fabric. Cover with the other piece of body fabric, with right sides together. You now have your "fish sandwich".

Now you will stitch the two sides together. Use the photo as your guide. Keep a 1/4" seam allowance. Be careful to miss the sides of the tail, but catch the tail where you originally sewed it. Sew straight across the dorsal fin area. Leave an area open for stuffing.

This is what your fish should look like when you turn it right side out. Now stuff with polyfil. I like mine a little firm, so the fish holds his shape. Slip stitch the opening closed. Now you have your fish all done!

You're welcome to use this tutorial to make any fish for your personal use or for gifts only. This design is copyright 2009 Denise Ferragamo. You may not sell any fish from this design or reprint or repost this tutorial without my permission. You may, however, link to this tutorial with my blessing!

Please visit Ferragamo Studio online at http://FerragamoStudio.artfire.com to purchase from Denise's beautiful collection of art dolls, softies, original paintings, jewelry and gourd art.

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Sealed Bottle Cap Tutorial

Sealed Bottle Cap Tutorial by Carol Bryce. Tutorial courtesy of Bottle Caps Galore Blog.

So you want to make your own sealed bottle caps for your DIY projects, but you aren't sure how? Well, here is your chance to learn! I am far from being an expert, but I have been making sealed bottle caps and things from them for about a year now and after MUCH trial and error, I am to the point where I am comfortable enough with my technique to share it with others. I know there are tutorials out there in cyberland that you can buy, but you can get it here for free. So, here we go!

You will need the following supplies to make your sealed bottle cap:

One bottle cap. You can buy new ones on Etsy or you may reuse a clean beer bottle cap.
One one inch round image. You can use scrapbook paper or you can purchase collages inexpensively on Etsy. I would recommend printing collages commercially, like at Office Max. Most home printed ink jet prints fade and bleed when the sealer is applied. I would also recommend placing a coat of Aileene's Paper Glaze on scrapbook paper before using the 3D Crystal Lacquer. This will prevent any possible bleeding or fading. I have found that some scrapbook papers do fade or bleed, so I just place it on all scrapbook paper that I use. There is no need to use it on commercial prints.
A one inch circle punch for nice even images.
An adhesive to attach the image to the bottle cap. I have found that Crafty Chica gloss/varnish works the best. Yes, I know it's not an official adhesive, but it works great! I got mine at Michaels. If you can't find it, you can use Mod Podge.
A finish/sealer for your adhered image. I use 3D Crystal Lacquer. This is by far the best stuff I have used. Little to no bubbles and it dries to a nice mirror like shine.
A tissue or paper towel for blotting the adhesive.
A Popsicle stick-optional
A flat surface to place your finished cap on for drying.

So now that you have all of your supplies together, you are ready to create!

Determine which side of the cap that you would like to decorate. The inside and outside decorate well, the inside is easier to seal. I use recycled caps for rings.

Once you have decided which side to use (for this tutorial, I will use the outside), place a small amount (a pea size amount) of your chosen adhesive to the cap and spread it evenly, either with the tip of the bottle or with a Popsicle stick.

Apply carefully from the bottle as some adhesives can be thin!

Add your chosen image and place it on the cap, making sure it is straight.

Take your tissue or paper towel and press down lightly on the image to adhere it to the cap and blot any adhesive that oozes out.

Let it dry for about 15-30 mins.Apply 3D Crystal Lacquer; do not shake the bottle.

Using gentle squeezing pressure on the bottle, apply a thin line of lacquer in the middle, go around the edges and fill in the rest with the tip of the bottle (don't squeeze the bottle, just move the tip around. Do not use a circular motion, as this may form bubbles) making sure to cover the area evenly.

If any bubbles form, just pop them with the tip of the bottle or blow on it gently.

Let dry on a flat surface for 12 hours. I would recommend waiting at least two days before shipping or packaging to allow the sealer to dry entirely.

Please visit Carol's Shop, Bottle Caps Galore, to purchase fun bottle cap creations like necklaces, earrings, ponytail holders, key chains, and more.

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How to Make Chainmail

A Chainmaille Tutorial written by Jessica of Red Panda Chainmaille. Reprinted with permission.

Hello all! It's Jessica from Red Panda Chainmaille. I've been making maille for a few years now, and every once in a while I get a request asking how I make it. I've decided to write a tutorial with pictures to show you all how it is done.

This is how to weave the European 4 in 1 pattern of chainmail. European 4 in 1 is the pattern most people think of when they imagine chainmail. It's what you see in movies like Lord of the Rings. It is called European 4 in 1 because it of the European family of maille, and if it were to be expanded into every direction infinitely, each one ring would go through four others.

You will need a few things to get started.

Supply list:
Jump rings
Two pairs of pliers

That's it! Your jump rings can vary. You can make your own by winding a coil and cutting them, or you can buy them pre-made at jewelry supply stores. The rings I'm using in this tutorial are rather large. They are made of 16 gauge wire, and they have an inner diameter of 5/16 inch. They are made of bright aluminum. This ring size overall is not optimal for European 4 in 1, as it is loose. In practice a smaller ring should be used, unless you are looking for the open, airy feel that you'll see in the completed project here.

I use one pair of wide flat nose pliers to grip the rings, and one pair of slim flat nose pliers to do my maneuvering. You can also use chain nose, bent nose, or even needle nose pliers if it's what you've got.

What we're learning is simply how to weave the pattern together to make a patch. Here's what the finished product will look like.



Alright. Now to get started! The most important thing to any mailler is how your closures are. Every ring you close, you want it to be perfectly smooth and seamless. The place where the ring is cut should be almost invisible when the rings are closed the right way (and of course given that your cuts and metal allow for this). This is important to ensure your piece is comfortable to wear whether you're making a bracelet, a shirt, or anything really. Here's a picture of a new, just cut, jump ring that hasn't been opened or closed yet...

To read the rest of this tutorial, visit Red Panda Chainmaille.
Also be sure to visit Red Panda's Art Fire Studio for handcrafted, artisan chainmaille jewelry.

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Earwire Tutorial

Tutorial by Orion Designs Blog.

I've been making my own earwires for many years. What follows is a tutorial for a very simple style that is a great way to get started. As time allows, I will add tutorials for several other styles of earwires.

I start with 3" - 3 1/2" of 20 ga half-hard sterling silver wire. If this is your first time trying this, you might want to practice with copper wire before cutting the sterling! Hammer about 1/4" of the end of the wire flat using a chasing hammer and either an anvil or bench block.



Next, using your round nose pliers, make a small loop at the flattened end:



Placing the round nose pliers just above this loop, make a bend in the opposite direction, as shown in the next 2 photos. In the 3rd photo below, you can see that I'm making the curve that will go through your ear. Here, I am using a size 13 aluminum knitting needle as a "jig". A Sharpie pen works well too.



To finish the earwires, hammer both the top curve and the small curve at the bottom where your drops will go. This hardens the wire and dresses it up at the same time. Don't forget to file the ends and make a small bend in the end, if desired.



Visit Orion Designs Shop online at http://vickiorion.etsy.com for beautiful beaded, artisan jewelry.

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Pattern for a half eaten gingerbread man

Tutorial reprinted compliments of Elsie Marley.

Only six days until christmas and amazingly there is no furious sewing in this house. Just one more gift to make and then we’re off to Grandma’s house. There are always a couple people I forget and they are always the ones ready with a gift for me. So I thought I’d make a few ornaments to keep in my bag for those awful, awkward moments. I’m sure there are people like that in your life too: the weird cousin, the super smiley coworker. I thought I’d pass on a pattern for a gingerbread man ornament that can be whipped up quickly just in case you forgot someone. Click here to download the gingerbread man pattern and instructions. I included some pictures with the instructions below as well. If you make one let me know!

materials

brown or tan wool felt

a tiny bit of white felt too

some stuffing (polyfil, etc.)

red, white, and black embroidery thread

white mini rickrack

fray check

two red buttons

glue stick

directions

1. cut out template and pin to felt. Cut out one gingerbread man out of felt.

2. for the eyes cut two small circles out of the white felt and attach them to the gingerbread man with one black french knot each. With a backstitch, sew a small circle for the mouth. Sew buttons on with white embroidery thread–to make them look like candies, sew from the button holes to the outside edge of the button. Cut pieces of mini rickrack for trim on two arms and the leg, dab all the ends with fray check, and use the glue stick to tack them down.



3. cut a rectangle as big as your gingerbread man out of felt. Pin your decorated man to this rectangle. Make a loop of rickrack and tuck it in between the layers on your gingerbread man’s head (to hang him from later). Stitch by machine or by hand from A to B (the long way) 1/8inch from the edge. Be sure to catch all the rickrack as you stitch.

4. cut off the extra felt.

5. stuff the little man lightly and sew up the opening.

6. hang him up or give him away!

Please visit Elsie's shop at http://elsiemarley.etsy.com for handmade toys, clothes, and accessories for the modern tot.

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Make your own baby sling Fast and Easy

Tutorial reprinted courtesy of Babymoon Boutique Blog.



I love to make and sell baby slings. It seems that all babies are happier if they are carried, but sometimes mama's arms get tired (amazing how heavy those tiny babies get!) Most of the time, though, I prefer to tell people how to make their own if they sew because they are so incredibly simple. Plus, if I tell you how to do it then I don't have to spend extra time sewing, packing, printing wearing instructions, and shipping them off.



Here for you today I am sharing how I make a baby sling. Granted, there are lots of other tutorials out there for making baby slings, but I'm not any good at following directions, so here is the way I do it.

1. Hem the long sides of a piece of fabric that is 42-45 inches wide by 2 and 1/2 yards using a narrow hem. The fabric I like best for slings is a slightly stretchy woven cotton poplin.

2. Hem one of the short sides.

3. Fold the unhemmed short side with pleating it across the width so that it ends up about 4 to 6 inches wide. Replace your needle with a size 14 or 16 sharp needle. Baste the pleating down. Serge across the end to neaten it up if you want.

4. Stuff that end into two welded stainless steel rings (get them at Lowes in the hardware aisle for $0.79 each, fold over and sew down with three lines of stitching. Go slow because there is a LOT of fabric under the needles here. You may consider wearing safety glasses. (Actually, my sewing machine manual recommends that I wear safety glasses anyway). Make sure everything is all smooth so that you don't sew extra tucks on the right side of the fabric.

So there you are. Put it on (there are some great sling wearing instructions here, as well as different ways to make other baby carriers) and then you're done!



Visit Babymoon Boutique online at http://babymoon.etsy.com for essential baby gear, totes, patterns, and more.

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Image Transfer Tutorial

Tutorial reprinted courtesy of Miss Mish Mish Mish Mash Blog.

Image Transfer Tutorial

If like to try out an alternative for those expensive iron-on, then maybe you should have a look at this! I love this transfer technique, it's cheap, easy and fun because you can achieve different "looks": from distressed to crisp images...it's worth a try!

What do you need:

soap shavings

turpentine

a piece of fabric and a fresh inkjet print

and : a well ventilated workspace!

Get a cup and fill it 1/4 with hot water, add two tabelspoons of soap shavings and stir. Then add a table spoon of turpentine and keep stirring until it looks like this:

Now we're ready to print! get your piece of paper and apply the soap and turpentine mix to the front of your print:



Then put it face down on your piece of fabric. Press it down firmly and apply the mix to the back. The paper will become slightly transparant. The mix can be applied quite thick, as long as you are careful not to rip up the paper. I like to use my hands to rub down the print, but a spoon is very handy too, it depends of the effect you desire:





Now peel back carefully ...and there it is!

How to "set" the print

Of course you don't want your image to fade after the first wash, but please note that that transfer technique is experimental : depending on the mix and amount of soap and turpentine you will get a stronger or weaker print. There are a few tricks for settings the transfer though:

Let your transfer dry for 24 hours. Get a spraying can ( you know, for spraying or watering your plants) and fill it with 50% water and 50% white vinegar. Spray it on the transfer and let it dry. After that you have to iron your transfer on high temperature or use a heat press. Repeat the last two steps( (spraying can and ironing) a few times, but don't rinse in between. When you have done this 3 or 4 times you can take an additional step and use some varnish on the transfer The fabric will become a bit stiffer, but if you do it carfully with thin layers you can obtain a nice result. This last step is recommened for transferring on t-shirts, but if you are just making appliques or transfers that don't need to be washed frequently, you can skip this step.

Please visit http://yasminbochi.etsy.com online for unusual bags and unique jewellry designs.

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